Sometimes the story behind a design and how it is crafted is so intriguing it makes you appreciate the design that much more. Such is the case with Emily Satloff’s jewelry line, Larkspur & Hawk. What you don’t necessarily know when you try on a dazzling pair of Halley’s comet earrings, or shimmering white topaz necklace, is the jewelry’s brilliance is the result of a centuries old technique, called foiling, that was used during the Georgian period (early 1700s to early 1800s). Satloff, who also specializes in selling antique jewelry to private clients, decided to resurrect the art of foiling and use it to create her own line of jewelry. And it is this technique–mixing semi-precious stones with different colored foils–that allows her to create such intense and subtle colors, unlike anything you’ve ever seen.
To top it off, Satloff, is as intriguing as her jewels. We met her at her Upper East Side apartment (the rich, exotic interiors courtesy of Katie Ridder) and were immediately enamored with her elegance, old-world charm and down-to-earth demeanor. She is a woman with a unique and poetic vision; rare qualities in today’s world. (Satloff’s jewelry can be found at Barneys and Net-a-Porter.)
Before you started Larkspur & Hawk you specialized in antique jewelry. What draws you to jewelry? My foray into antique jewelry actually stemmed from my studies and work in decorative arts. I felt that jewelry mimicked the trends found throughout history (silver, ceramics, architecture). Each piece of jewelry was a visual piece of history.
Larkspur & Hawk is your modernized take on Georgian jewelry. Explain. In selling antique jewelry each piece allowed me to act as a conduit to the past. My new collection is similar in that I have focused on keeping a tradition and craftsmanship alive through my knowledge and expertise, yet adding a slightly modern sensibility. In reference to the craftsmanship, I have revived the art of foiling gemstones, which was an 18th century jewelry-making technique.
Why the name Larkspur & Hawk? As often as we can, our family travels to our home away from home in Beaver Creek, Colorado. The name derives from my favorite ski runs, birds and flowers there.
What do you want a woman to feel when she puts on your jewelry? I want women to feel that when they are wearing my jewelry, they are wearing something unique and personal. Each piece is carefully designed, with the combination of gemstones and foils to brighten the face.
What new designs are you most excited about? The Halley collection. Many jewelers over the centuries have drawn inspiration from celestial happenings, such as Halley’s comet, the only periodic comet visible to the naked eye. [An occurrence that happens approximately every 75 years, and influenced Georgian jewelers.] The luminous pieces from the collection, combining faceted circular stones with pronged foliate detailing is evocative of the ethereal beauty of a shooting comet.
Describe your personal style: My style is geared towards the jewelry I am wearing. I gravitate towards slightly more feminine and romantic pieces that reference the past, yet are modern. If I could wear ball gowns every day I would!
Designers in your closet: Dries Van Noten, Morgane Le Fey, Prada, Giuseppe Zanotti (his shoes are jewelry for your feet), and Catherine Malandrino.
China on your table: Bernardaud Bacchanale.
Favorite scent: Frederic Malle Iris Poudre.
If you weren’t a jewelry designer you would….Own a vineyard.
The Cardigan balloon-sleeved wool cardigan
Milou roll-neck wool-blend sweater
Erith leather midi skirt
Suede over-the-knee boots
Contrast-trim shearling jacket
Perry patent leather pumps
Nate aviator-style tortoiseshell sunglasses
Fair Isle cashmere and wool-blend vest
Silk-satin midi skirt
Anita cotton-blend velvet top
Cantwell double-breasted cashmere coat