February 25th, 2015
SS15 Collection
The New Gucci
After the Gucci men’s show last month, I was curious to see Alessandro Michele’s debut womenswear collection for the house. I’m not into hairy shoes and sheer tops, but these three coats are okay. Thoughts on the show?
Vanessa Freidman’s review in The New York Times is a good read.
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I LOVE MR MITTENS
The Cardigan balloon-sleeved wool cardigan
A.P.C.
Milou roll-neck wool-blend sweater
VANESSA SEWARD
Erith leather midi skirt
VALENTINO
Suede over-the-knee boots
SAINT LAURENT
Contrast-trim shearling jacket
CHLOÉ
Perry patent leather pumps
CHLOÉ
Nate aviator-style tortoiseshell sunglasses
VINCE
Cashmere sweater
BURBERRY
Fair Isle cashmere and wool-blend vest
MICHAEL LO SORDO
Silk-satin midi skirt
M.I.H JEANS + Goldborne by Bay Garnett
Anita cotton-blend velvet top
GABRIELA HEARST
Cantwell double-breasted cashmere coat
view all
Strange clothes, fit, styling, venue, casting, everything. I get that a new designer would try to establish a fresh perspective, but did it have to completely lack a conventional Gucci vibe of breezy sex appeal and strong accessories? I don’t think its strangeness was as measured, confident and “intentional” as, say, a Prada show. The way Frida Giannini left so abruptly suggests a toxic work environment, and I can’t help but assume that led to a kind of haphazard, reactionary but directionless collection. But this is purely from an outsider’s perspective, so who knows.
Embarrassing! I will really miss Frida! Her clothes and accessories were so beautiful with superb craftsmanship. One of the best things about Gucci was the” investment quality” of their products. I wouldn’t even take any of the above for free. So sad.
Makes me want to but some Spring “15. I hope it works out, but I did love Frida.
I liked the last Gucci collection so much, that I’m really confused about why they got rid of the previous designer. Apparently the new designer had very little time to prepare, but It’s a confusing transition.
I ditto both Ann and BMA’s comments above. I am an outsider as well; but I follow fashion closely and can spot fabulous when I see it. The past few years of Gucci have been superb! Frida’s collections have been exquisite: full of modern classics and iconic pieces a woman would keep forever. I adored the campaigns with Charlotte. She was the ideal face of the label–sporty, chic, worldly, sophisticated, glamorous, a genuine sportswoman. Gucci’s roots are in tailored luxury. I must say the items above lack shape, spark, or identity. The word ‘schleppy’ comes to mind. And that orange hat could have come from Abercrombie . . .
I’m never going to be in the Gucci income bracket but I have loved the clothes from afar. That blue suede trench from pre fall 14 sported by Blake Lively and Karolina Kurkova to name but two – I would kill for it! And I’ve been admiring the silver loafers and pale blue pea coat in many of the street style fashion week snaps. This new collection is HORRIBLE! Just my opinion.
Woof. Gucci is not about nerdy or intellectual chic. This collection is uber frumpy.
I like the red shoes , beautiful color. Are they also furry on the back? The bottoms of the furs look strange.
It’s been interesting to see how “heritage” brands respond to the global slowdown in some segments of luxury spending. Gucci looks like it’s trying to borrow a page from Saint Laurent, but it’s an awkward turn.
Their current formula: less Veruska, more Courtney Love.
I like the flat shoes. AND I like that the models are wearing glasses.A lot of us do wear them and it’s nice to see -altho not ready for the Sally Jessie look again yet!
Preston, I think by describing the coats as “ok” you’re being kind!
Fendi just showed really good coats, although slightly reminiscent of Moncler.
I do like the coats, the look of the brown fur coat with the green foulard and big glasses is pretty gucci…
I agree its more messy looking than the sharp and cool seventies looks that we were used to see, but i feel that a younger and more modern proposal is coming in…
Proportions are off and not in the least elegant. I hope someone is listening. Makes me yearn all the more for Gucci days gone by.
I’m not sure how I feel about the collection. I do think that Gucci desperately needed a new direction and I am giving Alessandro Michele the benefit of the doubt. When Hedi Slimane’s second Saint Laurent collection came down the runway, I was disappointed, however, I am now a huge fan. Although I don’t see these clothes selling like crazy at first, time will tell.
No, no, no! SL is’ rock chick cool’ but the new Gucci is mostly frumpy. Let’s hope AM didn’t have enough time to create what he really wanted. I can’t see sales rebounding for this collection.
Full disclosure – I am NOT a fashion insider but love fashion – follow fashion avidly – and love to shop.
That said – I was really disappointed by this collection. Reminded me of some Prada collections from a few seasons ago. And the styling is reminiscent of the Jenna Lyons JCrew “look”.
I was really hoping for some flashbacks to the good old days of Tom Ford and Carine Roitfeld – fitted jackets and pencil skirts. Disappointed.
Interesting to me that this post would come right after the clothes from Joseph, which are beautifully casual and contemporary in a luxe, modern way.
It has become so tedious that owners of houses feel they must frump the line in order to make it appear “young”. Are we so gullible? Only time will tell, but I think comparing this Gucci train wreck with YSL would be premature since the cries of indignation (my voice included) then were for the slash and burn tactics in the early days. Turns out the St. Laurent DNA was preserved in the classics. We can only pray that the same will hold for Gucci, but oh, it doesn’t look good…..
I coveted the brown suede coat from the previous collection. None of these coats appeal to me in the least bit. I don’t like the shoes either. As others have stated FRUMPY.
Disappointed to say the least. I kinda miss Frida and the Tom Ford era, at least they understood the Gucci woman !
The coats are quite beautiful though, but they need another styling !
http://www.pardonmyobsession.com/
Love it. Chic. Gucci was starting to look like 70’s costumes. Bad style a la Rachel Zoe or JLo.
The coat on the right is a very chic piece but generally speaking I am not a Gucci girl, never was so, will not become.
At first glance I really didn’t like this collection but I realize that what I really dislike is the rich androgynous hipster Jenna Lyons styling/attitude. If I don’t look at the models and their ironic eyeglasses, lank hair and hairy shoes, some of the clothes have excellent and interesting details. Styled differently I would have had a very different initial reaction. That said, I don’t like to work so hard to see the clothes.
Compare the Gucci suede coat and skirt featured at right–both sold out–then look at these hairy, shapeless bathrobe coats. For my taste, Gucci under Frida was beyond fashion. It had a couture look, in the category of Hermes, but with that fabulous Italian sports heritage. The suede coat & skirt could go to the office, gallery, club, cocktails, mom and dad’s house, town or country, or to grad school. You just can’t say that about these dreadful coats.! Sadly, the blonde model looks more like a State Department spokeswoman trying hard to appear smart by wearing nerd glasses.
I loved this collection and the menswear one. Creative and beautiful. I also enjoyed Frida’s more recent collections. But I think it’s a matter of personal style, somewhat, our preferences for a collection. Frida focused on crisp tailoring and streamlined, sophisticated looks; Ford’s collections oozed sex appeal and this collection reminds me of the quirky, brainier Milanese style that’s in vogue right now – all with a dash of ease.