‘Inside Helmut Lang 2.0, the Re-Invention of the 1990s’ Most Influential Label’
Spring 2000
Styles from the 1990s have come back with a vengeance in the past few years, so it’s no surprise that Helmut Lang’s influence (he was the most important designer of that decade in my opinion) is now everywhere.
The absolute zenith of my previous career was the six years I cast for Helmut. When he retired from fashion in 2005, my inspiration retired with him; I stopped casting full-time soon after. In a recent W article by Alix Browne (it’s a must-read), she talks about Helmut’s rise, departure, and the state of the brand over the last decade. After attempting to make the line more accessible, the Helmut Lang label is now helmed by Isabella Burley, the editor in chief of British indie magazine, Dazed. Along with a main collection, which is designed by an in-house team, Ms. Burley has hired guest designers to do capsule collections. However, I am anxiously awaiting the Helmut Lang Re-Editions launch this fall of pieces recreated from the archives.
My list is long.
2002 Ad campaign image
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what's new
CHLOÉ
Long wool blazer
JOSEPH
Jamie panelled silk dress
REJINA PYO
Lila hooded checked wool-blend duffle coat
JOSEPH
Sinclair sucked silk-crepe blouse
JOSEPH
Collins draped silk skirt
LOEWE
Point-toe navy suede and leather chelsea boots
KHAITE
Doris cotton-gabardine trench coat
GIANVITO ROSSI
55 leather knee boots
VICTORIA, VICTORIA BECKHAM
Color-block ribbed merino wool turtleneck sweater
ISABEL MARANT
Nirvy studded leather sandals
REJINA PYO
Avery oversized belted two-tone cotton twill trench coat
J.W. ANDERSON
Scare Crow suede ankle boots
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The casting was always incredible, Preston, had no idea you were involved. I have a new level of appreciation for you and your “eye”.
Not surprising that you lost your inspiration for casting when Mr. Lang retired, it must have been an amazing time in your career. I have Helmut Lang coats that I cherish, they look like I bought them yesterday.
I remember sitting under the racks of clothes doing homework with Helmut’s adorable dog while you both worked. Always an inspiration xx