September 29th, 2020
Cool Collaboration

Helmut Lang x Anthony Vaccarello for Saint Laurent Rive Droite

Tim Blanks of BOF spoke with Saint Laurent Creative Director Anthony Vaccarello about his new collaboration with Helmut Lang, which launches Wednesday at Saint Laurent’s flagship store in Paris. Later, the show will move to the Rive Droite store in Los Angeles. Not a clothing collaboration, art. Helmut used the Saint Laurent pieces that don’t make it to production — “(t)he essence of the resulting artwork is the same iconoclastic alchemy that Lang applied to his own archive, reducing it to shreds, moulding it into primal totem pole shapes.” 

Photo of Helmut Lang by Daniel Trese

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JIL SANDER

Belted cotton jacket

JIL SANDER

High-rise straight cotton pants

VALENTINO

Wool crème slip dress

MANOLO BLAHNIK

Pamfilo stretch-suede knee boots

JIL SANDER

Belted double-breasted felted-wool coat

SAINT LAURENT

Small leather pouch

SAINT LAURENT

Floral-jacquard tights

NILI LOTAN

Isadora merino wool sweater

SAINT LAURENT

Tag leather tote

BOTTEGA VENETA

Stretch-cotton shirt sand-beige

VICTORIA BECKHAM

Pleated wool gabardine A-line midi skirt

BOTTEGA VENETA

Stretch-cotton shirt dark brown

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  • The A.P.C. X C.D. collaboration interests me in part because of Ms. Deneuve’s age and because her personal style is so chic. But generally my feeling is collaborations between famous names have run their course. It’s as if everyone has gotten bored and looking for something to do to reinvigorate their brand. Maybe I’m being too cynical . . . ?

    PaulaSeptember 30th, 2020  11:22 PM

     
  • I respectfully disagree. Many collaborations have revitalized some stodgy brands. Moncler is a good example — if I saw one more shiny parka I would scream. Their collaborations are super creative and have renewed interest in the brand. Ines de la Fressange x Uniqlo was another favorite, also APC x Suzanne Koller. There is a building fascination with the ’90s. Many folks are nostalgic for a more creative and less commercial time. Helmut Lang x Saint Laurent is an art collaboration, which I find even more interesting. Helmut’s work informed ’90s fashion and, as an old friend, I am beyond excited for this pairing.

    PrestonOctober 1st, 2020  9:54 AM

     
  • Preston, once again your blog inspires thoughtful examination of design and beauty and delves deeper than ‘what’s trending today.’ I love that!
    Undoubtedly, Ines and her effort with Uniqlo was fantastic! Thank you for that reminder!
    I’ve always been impressed with ‘the truly exceptional’ and examining how it occurs and what differentiates it. I agree that many design brands lost their way, pushing out a merry-go-round of mediocre collections – fabulous fashion has drowned in commercialism in recent years. Anything that can turn that around is good.
    Steve Jobs, a creative genius by any measure, comes to mind as the most obvious example of the power of one. The biography by Walter Isaacson is fascinating, hilarious, and a riveting story of what creative genius looks like:
    . . . “a searingly intense personality of a creative entrepreneur whose passion for perfection and ferocious drive revolutionized six industries: personal computing, animated movies, music, phones, tablet computing, and digital publishing.” I can’t recommend it highly enough! At points of production, Jobs found exceptional talents to collaborate with; but ultimately, always, he drove the bus.
    Old adages contradict: A camel is a horse designed by a committee. Two heads are better than one.
    Too many cooks spoil the broth. It takes a village. Do your own thing.
    Regardless, however it’s achieved, for me, excellence in design and craft is exciting and will always define chic ~
    Thank you for sharing what’s happening out there, Preston!!

    PaulaOctober 2nd, 2020  12:19 AM

     

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