February 21st, 2022
On the hunt for

Missing Marc Jacobs + Early Aughts Revisited + The Blouse

Please bear with me on this one. Marc Jacobs’ FW20 collection was fantastic and I was hoping for more of the same this season. However,  the designer skipped NYFW and, instead, released a look book of 10 images — interesting silhouettes — but not what I was hoping for. What I really want is Marc Jacobs from the early aughts. The low-slung, midriff baring looks that are making a splashy comeback were not the only style at that time, there was, also, a pulled-together look of knee-length skirts with blouses. Marc was the king of this look. I was a huge fan of his nod-to-the-’70s sensibility, a welcome breather from slip dresses and strict minimalism. Marc’s early designs for Louis Vuitton epitomized this vibe.

Where am I going with this? I’m looking for a blouse — not a white button down, and no pussy bows, pilgrim collars, peasant, or boho — just a classic silk blouse to tuck into a skirt or pants, please.  I’m starting with L’AgenceSaint Laurent, Equipment. The hunt is on.

Image left Marc Jacobs Spring 2000   Image right Louis Vuitton Spring 2004

  • To be honest I have only 3 blouses. Two are long sleeved and one is actually a ‘shell’..sleeveless with a slightly draped neckline. These are counter intuitive to my basic wardrobe. I have not given or donated them yet; I loved them once but now not so much. Why do I still have them still in there taking up space? They are fairly timeless and the shell could go underneath a jacket. Your thoughts have given me some realization the long sleeved things should go

    DianneFebruary 21st, 2022  12:15 PM

  • In the olden days, my uniform was an Equipment silk blouse tucked into mid-rise jeans. It was so easy and went everywhere. Wondering if they still make Equipment?

    KathyFebruary 21st, 2022  12:26 PM

  • Yes indeed and I just added to the bottom of the post. If I’m not mistaken, Equipment was founded by Carine Roitfeld’s partner, Christian Restoin.

    PrestonFebruary 21st, 2022  12:35 PM

  • It was and it is still Equipment. Have at least 6 tops and just got rid of a dress that didn’t fit anymore. Think they fly under the radar because they’re so understated and marketing is non existent. Keep us posted of course and good luck.

    SueMFebruary 21st, 2022  1:24 PM

  • @Kathy: They do, I still wear all of mine! The Outnet usually has quite a few.

    @Preston: Yes, founded by Christian Restoin. The story is that when Carine Roitfeld took the Paris Vogue job, Christian Roitfeld decided to step down from Equipment. Fast forward a few years and his good friend Serge Azria decided to relaunch it. Fun fact: when it was relaunched in 2009 I wrote about it on my site, having seen it at a press event. I had to remove the post after the PR told me I had inadvertently broken an exclusive promised to U.S Vogue

    disneyrollergirlFebruary 21st, 2022  1:34 PM

  • On my shopping trips to Beverly Hills, I would visit the Equipment store on Melrose Place. (It’s not there anymore). I once bought 2 basic cashmere sweaters that are much loved and worn to this day. The salesgirl told me that it is a little known fact that Equipment is known for it’s durable cashmere. Love, Pamela Taft

    Pamela TaftFebruary 21st, 2022  2:28 PM

  • Preston, when you started your collar no-no’s – I had to laugh.. I just had this same conversation with a friend recently. I must admit I’m rather baffled with pilgrim collars and their ilk that have been popping up. Designers, please offer sophisticated, understated, elegant, creative, glamorous, gentlewomanly, and even slightly louche blouse options. (Any combination of these would be greatly appreciated.)

    I too love the Marc Jacob looks featured above. Not only sophisticated, hip, and pulled together, but also so very wearable. Thank you for your wonderful posts, I so appreciate them.

    Lisa FFebruary 21st, 2022  2:46 PM

  • I still have several blouses from Equipment in rotation. I also love the Stella McCartney Eva blouse and have it in various colours. Worn so many times and still look fab.

    MargaretFebruary 21st, 2022  3:21 PM

  • Great post of two sexy, polished and wearable looks! These could be worn to the office (which is coming back, I think….), or anywhere else during the day. Also love the Bridget Bardot hair and seeing women with a normal shape, meaning not anorexic. Good luck finding your blouse! When I have something I specifically want, I can never find it or only find it at a price point way higher than I want to spend.

    RebeccaFebruary 21st, 2022  3:55 PM

  • From my late teens ( I know because it is my 1970 Briarcliff year book picture ) until now I still feel best in a long sleeve collared button down silk blouse with the sleeves pushed up . I loved the original Equipment and the re launched Equipment but now prefer no pockets no darts , the best are from The Row , The Petah , I size up because I love the slouch The Big Sislea no need to size up ,In the summer or in St Barth oversized linen or cotton from Hartford , Xerina. or Bergfabel . More deluxe a small men’s Sea Island shirt from The Row . There are also ancient favorites that I have had the incredible Christy Rilling remake !

    Brooke GarberFebruary 21st, 2022  4:10 PM

  • Have you taken a look at TWP? Has become my shirting go to over past few years. The silks are perfection. Polished, chic and just right amount of sexy. Bit hard to find but worth the hunt.

    JTFebruary 21st, 2022  9:30 PM

  • When my daughter was in high school, I spotted a fantastic little 70’s-looking wool knit short sleeve, slightly A-shape dress in the Juniors Department of our local department store. I brought her back to the store to try it on. It was a then-fairly-new label called Marc by Marc. It was expensive for a high schooler, but I knew the moment I saw it, it was a 100 percent winner! She loved it more and her appreciation for it grew every time she wore it. She is now six (or seven?) years out of college, and guess who still pulls out that dress, and it STILL looks fabulous on her. Sophisticated simply never goes out of style! The line was short lived, and nothing close replaced that niche.

    PaulaFebruary 22nd, 2022  12:58 AM

  • Hello Preston, most of my blouses/shirts are Equipment, Theory or Sezane. Some are quite old. All classic, well-made and stand the test of time. Dress up or dress down. I also have a few Equipment shirt dresses and sweaters I wear often. You are correct about classics, always.

    SuW uFebruary 22nd, 2022  6:23 AM

  • HI Preston- I too am a fan of a beautiful blouse, it can pull together a look in seconds flat. I recently added 4 versions of the VIVI to our Modern Classics collection, to be worn alone or paired with matching pant. https://www.aqcclothing.com/search?q=vivi*&type=product .
    Perfect collar, Shell Buttons, great length. We’d love to send you one to try if you’d like?
    xx lissa

    LissaFebruary 22nd, 2022  11:02 AM

  • Try Ralph Lauren collection he does beautiful silk with a tad of stretch each season

    Jennifer AllisonFebruary 22nd, 2022  11:21 AM

  • A friend gave me an off-white J.Crew silk blouse that I was about to put into the donation pile, but didn’t bc I kept thinking in theory, it should be such a great basic but I never wear it. I think bc it’s silk it feels too dressy for every day? . I also recently bought a cloth and Stone white tencel blend button up but I haven’t worn it yet. Something keeps me from wearing buttons ups! I then bought a very starchy poplin white button up. I am looking for something that can be put under sweaters now but also worn alone in the spring. I am rambling but I would love to see a picture of what you have in mind and hear more about how you would stylet for both casualwear and dressing up.

    GraceFebruary 22nd, 2022  1:19 PM

  • Love that this topic came up and appreciate hearing everyone’s recommendations. Funny the brand Equipment should come up. I love their cashmere sweaters for everyday. Years ago, I bought a beautiful charcoal grey crewneck in a style they called the Sloane. Well, I’ve worn that until I’m about to go through the elbows. They have another crewneck style called the Sanni, but it’s not cut the same and they’ve stopped making the Sloane. Really sad. Their silk blouses are great. Preston, curious as to whether you prefer their silk or silk satin blouse?

    KimFebruary 22nd, 2022  2:15 PM

  • Marc by Marc Jacob! This reminds me of his neoprene (!) dress I bought years ago and still love. It is so different and yet such a classic. I will never give it away. So versatile – can be worn alone or layered over a shirt. Love its silhouette.

    SLFFebruary 22nd, 2022  2:48 PM


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