Tim Blanks of BOF spoke with Saint Laurent Creative Director Anthony Vaccarello about his new collaboration with Helmut Lang, which launches Wednesday at Saint Laurent’s flagship in the former Colette space on Rue St. Honoré. Later, the show will move to the Rive Droite store in Los Angeles. Not a clothing collaboration, art. Helmut used the Saint Laurent pieces that don’t make it to production — “(t)he essence of the resulting artwork is the same iconoclastic alchemy that Lang applied to his own archive, reducing it to shreds, moulding it into primal totem pole shapes.”
Photo of Helmut Lang by Daniel Trese
Roll-neck cable-knit wool-blend sweater
Viviane wool turtleneck sweater
Floral stretch-lace tights
Slanted-cuff leather knee-high boots
Oversized hooded cable-knit wool and mohair-blend cardigan
Aiden sleeveless cashmere top
Hawes T-bar cutout leather pumps
Oversized cashmere knit top
Wool-blend turtleneck vest
On The Hunt For
I’ve been willing a cargo comeback. So, when I saw this JW Anderson SS21 collection image, I let out a little sigh of delight. I never tracked down the Marni SS17 jacket below, sadly, but the Current/Elliott pants are still beloved and get better with age. Discontinued for years, I find pairs here and there — thank goodness for resale.
On My Radar
Tomorrow, A.P.C. launches their 7th Interaction featuring pieces designed by Catherine Deneuve. I have a beloved sweater from the collaboration with Suzanne Koller, and Gwyneth Paltow’s A.P.C.x GOOP Interaction, which is focused on denim and available now, looks really good.
A.P.C. founder Jean Touitou and Catherine Deneuve.
The Prada SS21 collection, co-designed with Raf Simons, has a number of classic Prada references coupled with Raf’s graphics, which gives us a peek into the future direction of the brand. Considering the circumstances under which the collection was created, there is a lot to love. Both designers are partial to the idea of uniform dressing, which will be easy to achieve with these looks.
These pictures have been on my inspiration board for a very long time — 2011 and 2013, respectively. A chunky cardigan, which I’ve rolled over from list to list, has eluded me — until now. My significant SS20 purchases have been sitting idle and are actually better for fall. So, when I found my dream cardigan by Saint Laurent, I didn’t dither, I splurged. It runs very large and looks great belted.
Below: Saint Laurent, Dsquared2, Isabel Marant Étoile
On My Radar
Here’s what I’m looking forward to: The Prada SS21 show, which is the first collection co-designed with the brilliant Raf Simons. The second installment of the In Vogue: The 1990s podcast series hosted by Hamish Bowles — it’s a fun listen. A new Lana Del Rey album would be good right about now. And Sofia Coppola’s ‘On The Rocks’, and the next Bond film ‘No Time To Die’, will be out in November.
In a moment of synchronicity, Ann Mashburn and I were chatting about her polished and very wearable Buckle Shoe just as I was looking at gray fabric swatches for a made to order ARoss Girl x Soler dress.
For the first time in a long time, I have stacks of books I can’t wait to read. The tallest stack is mysteries, but these five are at the front of the queue. During quarantine I’ve read a lot of poems, short stories and non-fiction, fewer novels. I’m excited to hear Honor Moore discuss her new book via Zoom next month.
Black Mountain Poems, Vesper Flights, Pitch Uncertain, Our Revolution, Caste.
I love textured tights and some of my favorites are by H&M. They are super comfortable and you can’t beat the price. Black and grey.
The versatility of a knit vest has become very clear to me recently. In July, I posted on a black Cecilie Bahnsen vest over an ARoss Girl x Soler dress and the pairing sparked a newfound appreciation for the sleeveless sweater. The V-neck Marc Jacobs vest atop a white button-down on Kaia above is really good — a bit rakish. I wear a white Cecilie Bahnsen vest with an old Atlantique Ascoli blouse, and a grey one over a T-shirt has been an easy transition-to-fall look.